Back in Marina Land: Adapting our cruising plans and getting ready leave for Hawaii

Isabelle went back to states a month ago but here we are on the beach next to the marina for a game of Kubb

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We are back in the marina- time to prepare for our passage to Hawaii. We have a reasonably short list now after doing lots of work on the boat over the last month or so.

It has been very sad to let go of our trip to the South Pacific but not hard to keep in perspective the incredible global deprivations and loss everyone is experiencing. We are acutely aware that we are not unique in this need to adapt. We are glad we are not one of the boats already on our way to the South Pacific and caught in quarantine there only to have to put straight back out to sea. We are constantly communicating with other cruisers and listening to cruiser’s radio nets. Like everyone, people are trying to make sense of what comes next and keeping safe and healthy in a constantly changing environment. We are sharing information and stories, talking with people who are interested in “buddy boating” across the Pacific.

Sailing is about endlessly adapting- to weather, winds, current, boat failures and required repairs, crew needs. Adding in a pandemic intensifies the need to adapt. The locals here are so gracious and helpful in a time that has to be far more punishing for them than us. I heard a number of 40% of the local population here are in low level jobs without any job protection at all. I think that number may be much higher. The grocery stores are not over run for the simple reason that people probably cannot afford to stock up. The malecon is empty – closed off by the army. There is a curfew and the town looks completely emptied of people.

Our friend Mark and crew are currently on passage to Hilo, Hawaii and Paul has been doing SSB radio checks with him. Incredibly, even at a couple of thousand miles out he was able to hear us on the radio. We have been cruising with him and his wife Heidi since December, sharing many special meals and moments, birthdays and anniversaries. It has been one of the highlights of our trip. We both started from the San Juan Islands with them leaving a few months ahead of us.

Amidst being busy we need to enjoy our land time…This is a beautiful marina and the staff are so friendly and kind. We are trying to make time for walks and swimming. Rosie has been going out fishing with friend Bek in our dinghy

Marina CostaBaja where we have been on and off for several months. A beautiful place

Preparing for Passage: We need to top up propane, food and fuel and do laundry. We need to watch weather and contact the Hawaii port captains to find out about quarantine and which island to make landfall on. We will take our temperatures each day at sea and keep a log to share with customs in Hawaii in the hope that we will get some quarantine “credit” for sea time

24 Hour Surface Forecast for the Eastern Pacific from NOAAs ocean prediction center. Hawaii is at the bottom center. The Pacific High is above it with some interesting low pressure systems to the North, moving North East and not of concern to us at this point.

Exit Permits and Formalities: We need to get our Zarpe paperwork – the nautical equivalent of clearing customs in the airport and getting your exit visas including a stamp in the boat’s “passport”. The increasing loss of freedom of movement here will make this harder than usual. The roads have checkpoints now ensuring people are wearing masks and not traveling in groups.

Insurance: We have to find liability insurance for Tomten for Hawaiian waters as our current insurance is cancelled. We are unable to be in compliance with their requirements for offshore passage making. These include finding a 4th crew member with ocean experience, health certificates for all 4 crew members costing $800 each and a $1500 “surcharge” for going offshore.

Survey and Haulout: The day after we got back from cruising, we had the boat hauled out and surveyed by a delightful Canadian surveyor here. He spent a number of hours going over all safety, rigging and mechanical systems on board and also inspecting the hull for any incipient problems. This is required to find new insurance. It has been an expensive couple of day (a couple of “boat units” as people say- which refers to $1000 increments)

Emergency communication: We need to install our DSC antenna – we can transmit DSC (digital selective calling) distress calls for emergencies but without an antenna, we cannot receive confirmation that our messages have been received.

Water: We also need to finish plumbing in 2 x 40 gallon Plastimo water bladders to supplement our new (and reduced) water tankage. Our desalinator/ watermaker died a slow death and our new watermaker (25gph) installed after several days of hard work, proves to have far too much energy draw for our energy system so we can’t use it as it is. Water will be ok on passage but we definitely won’t be taking freshwater showers….

Engine: Miranda needs some attention- she will need an oil change, fuel filter change and her sea water impeller inspected and possibly changed in preparation for being at sea.

It does feel like time to return to the US. That has been our lowest priority until recently. The approach of hurricane season is now our biggest timing concern. Hawaii will be our first port of call, probably Hilo, although we are hoping to go to Kauai. We will then sail around the Pacific high and head to Alaska or BC and down to the PNW depending on the weather and how much time we have.. We are hoping the quarantine in HI may be lifted by the time we arrive there and that we will be able to do some surfing.